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If you lived two hundred years ago, came from the upper social classes, had breathing problems or suffered from something that doctors could not deal with, they would definitely send you to warm regions, to some warm and damp place. Madeira was one of these destinations.
Hotel History
In 1836, also for health reasons, 14-year-old William Reid came to Madeira from Scotland, with five pounds in his pocket. He started various businesses while dreaming his dream: to build the first luxury hotel on Madeira just for such ritzy guests. In 1860, he bought the land and three years later, he started building the hotel; unfortunately, he died before its completion. His dream was realized only by his sons Willy and Alfred, who opened the building in November 1891 as the New Hotel. However, everyone on the island called it New Reid’s Palace. In its history, the hotel has changed owners several times, currently, this 5-star hotel belongs to the renowned Belmond chain.
From the road, the pink building looks quite inconspicuous. In the past, today’s main entrance was used only for employees and supplies. More ordinary guests stayed on this side, they had to endure the noise as supplies were brought here on oxen.
The hotel complex is located on a cliff. So the front side was the one facing the sea, the aristocratic guests stayed there, and the original reception was also located on this side. Guests were brought here in small boats and then carried by strong men on litter to the hotel on top of the cliff.
Famous Guests
Two years after the opening of the hotel, one of the most prominent visitors arrived here – the Austrian Empress Elizabeth – Sisi. It was her second visit to the island. Queen Victoria offered her yacht for Sisi´s first journey because no other suitable vessel was found in the monarchy. On the second trip, in 1893, Sisi arrived on the imperial steamer Greif in Funchal on December 24, the day of her 56th birthday. Warships saluted her in the bay with salvos and then saluted her every morning during her weeks-long stay. The Empress stayed with her 140-member staff on the ground floor of Mr. Reid’s New Hotel. Her tall, slim figure in a long black dress (since the death of her only son, the heir to the throne, Rudolph, in 1889, the Empress only wore black) attracted considerable attention everywhere. Sisi went for walks on the levadas, climbed the highest peaks of the island, and Madeirans collected ice in the mountains so that the Empress could treat herself to ice baths.
Today, she would definitely appreciate the wellness spa, play tennis on the hotel courts, swim in the pool or use some of the direct accesses to the Atlantic.
Correspondence between Emperor Francis Joseph I and his wife is preserved in the Viennese archives. In one of the letters, he expresses his pleasure at the fact that Sisi has gained four kilos on Madeira. The Empress also took her cooks and confectioners with her on the trip, but who knows, maybe she also liked the dishes prepared by the hotel chef. After all, even today there are only two Michelin-starred chefs on the island, and one of them works at Reid’s Hotel. Today, guests can choose from up to four thematic restaurants.
The hotel’s guest list includes many other famous names: His Majesty King Edward VIII, King Umberto of Italy, the Swedish royal couple, the Danish royal family, writer George Bernard Shaw (who came here to learn to dance tango), poet Rainer Maria Rilke, actors Charlie Chaplin, Roger Moore and Gregory Peck. Today, no one knows how the people from the hotel found out that Winston Churchill also intended to travel somewhere south. They invited him here, to this hotel, although they had to borrow the furniture for his room from rich Madeiran families. Churchill spent two weeks here in 1950, painting and writing his memoirs. He would have stayed longer, but he lost the election and had to return home.
The floor and ceiling in the former dining room are still from the time of these famous guests, today this room is used for various events.
Gardens – The Pride of the Hotel
The hotel is located on a rocky cliff, from where there is a wonderful view of the Atlantic Ocean and the hotel zone of Funchal.
The entire complex covers 5 hectares, of which 3 hectares are subtropical gardens. Today, all rooms are equipped with a balcony or terrace and overlook the ocean or these gardens. There is an amazing botanical diversity, over 500 different species of plants and trees from all over the world, including orchids and strelitzia.
Invitation to Afternoon Tea
Even today, the hotel serves a wealthy clientele, but for those of us who cannot afford such luxury, but would still like to feel the nostalgic atmosphere, afternoon tea is organized. So we treated ourselves to a glass of champagne and tea served in porcelain made especially for this occasion. There are several types of tea to choose from. Tea is served on the terrace which we saw while walking around the gardens.
The elegant tradition of afternoon tea, which Belmond Reid’s Palace proudly continues, dates back to the days when the British shipping Union-Castle Line operated a fleet of passenger steamers and cargo ships, providing regular connections between England and Madeira. The dress code also enhances the exceptional moment, but I was a little surprised that one young man came in shorts. The waiters brought us freshly baked scones with jam, cream and spreads, small sandwiches with different fillings, and finally, exclusive desserts landed in front of us.
Prices in 2023: menu €39 per person, a glass of champagne from the hotel selection: €25 – €80
More information: Reid´s Palace
Afternoon tea at Belmond Reid’s Palace is not a cheap affair, but it is a very pleasantly spent time when you can comfortably lean back in the armchair of a luxury hotel with a long history, watch the helpful waiters or the escaping bubbles of sparkling wine and enjoy the served delicacies and delicious tea.
Extra tip:
Be sure to stop by the bronze statue of Empress Sisi.
Sisi came to Madeira for the first time in November 1860. She was only 23 years old and had three pregnancies and births in four years, while her two-year-old daughter Sophia died. Sisi ate little, which led to anaemia and exhaustion. She also suffered from a strong cough, so Dr. Josef Skoda, a lung specialist, ordered her a stay in Madeira. Once Sisi was on board the ship, her condition improved. She stayed at Quinta Vigia (today’s building on the original site is the seat of the regional government of Madeira and is not open to the public). One photograph from her stay has also been preserved, today in the collections of the Wien Museum. It shows Sisi playing the local guitar.
The Empress returned to Vienna only after five months, but she did not stay long in the capital of the monarchy. This trip to Madeira started her subsequent escapes from the Viennese court, from her imperial husband, as well as from herself. However, that is a different story…
The statue of Sisi is located next to the casino building by Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer.
For more information about Madeira: visitmadeira
Text: © Copyright Ingrid, Travelpotpourri
Fotos: © Copyright Ingrid, Travelpotpourri
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