11 Tips for Visiting Kochi in Kerala

In July 1497, the navigator Vasco da Gama set sail from the port of Lisbon with four sailing ships and the most experienced navigators on a voyage around the Cape of Good Hope to distant India, where no one had ever sailed before. His daring feat was successful, and in May 1498, his fleet anchored on the shores of what is now the southern Indian state of Kerala. This voyage marked the beginning of the maritime phase of international trade between Europe and Asia.
Two years later, his compatriot Pedro Álvarez Cabral (the discoverer of Brazil) landed in Kochi Lagoon and founded the first European settlement in India. The city became an important center of the spice trade and soon earned the nickname Queen of the Arabian Sea. Even today, it is an important seaport and transport terminal. However, the city of Kochi (formerly known as Cochin) also has something to offer for lovers of historical monuments. The streets are lined with colonial-style houses, churches and small shops. The main tourist attraction is the historic coastal district of Fort Kochi.
(1) Chinese Fishing Nets
One of the first things that caught my attention in Fort Kochi were these fishing nets. They are as much a part of the city as the Eiffel Tower is to Paris. They are featured on every magnet and postcard.

These traditional fishing nets were introduced here by Chinese explorers in the 14th century, probably under the leadership of Admiral Zheng He. There used to be many Chinese nets in Kochi, but today only ten remain.

Firmly anchored on land, they hang like giant spiders stretched out over the sea, while large stones attached to ropes serve as counterweights at the other end. Six men are needed to operate this ten-meter-high device. The net is submerged in the water, pulled up after a few minutes, and one of the men climbs across the teak and bamboo structure like a tightrope walker and collects the caught fish with a small net.

The catch seemed small to me, but the counters of the stalls in this historic coastal district were quite full. Among the fish caught, I also found karimeen – a fish that is one of the state symbols of Kerala. Its body is silver with a light green tinge and eight transverse bands. Most of the scales above the lateral line have a white pearly spot, which is why it is called Pearl Spot in English. I had the opportunity to taste this fish – it was delicious, fried, crispy and of course, quite spicy!

(2) Cathedral Basilica of Santa Cruz
The Portuguese also brought Christianity with them to India. One of the most important churches is the Cathedral Basilica of Santa Cruz (Holly Cross), built by the Portuguese in 1505. It is still a functioning church where Mass is held on Sundays. Pope John Paul II also visited the basilica. Unfortunately, this church was closed during my visit.

The basilica is typically open from morning to early evening. A common sightseeing window is roughly around 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., but timings can shift slightly on service or festival days.

If Mass or prayer is underway, visitors may be asked to wait quietly outside.
(3) St. Francis Church
As time passed, different cultures and religions mixed here. Currently, almost half of the population professes Hinduism, one third are Christians, and less than 20% are Muslims.

In Kerala, I saw churches on almost every corner, most of them colorful, and even the statues of saints were painted in bright colors. In Kochi, almost all the churches had white facades. At the Church of Our Lady of Life, I was struck by a tall gilded (or brass?) pillar called a kodimaram. These pillars are typical of Hindu temples and serve as a kind of spiritual beacon representing the connection between the earthly and divine realms. The fact that this pillar stands in front of the church is proof of how the traditional culture of Kerala has blended with Christian traditions. During holidays, a flag is raised on these poles.

Kochi is also home to the oldest European church in India, St. Francis Church.

Vasco da Gama changed the history of world trade. He bought expensive spices (mainly black pepper and cinnamon) with the imported goods and set off on his return voyage in August. Although he returned to Portugal with only two ships and half of his crew, many of the sailors suffering from scurvy, he was welcomed as a hero in Lisbon. He returned to India twice more. He set out on his third voyage in 1524 with his two sons and a fleet of fourteen ships. Shortly after his arrival, however, he got malaria and died on Christmas Eve. He was buried in this Church of St. Francis, built by Portuguese settlers in 1516 on the site of an older wooden church of Portuguese Franciscan monks from 1503.

The oldest object is the wooden pulpit. The ceiling fans (punkah) are interesting – large pieces of fabric suspended from beams, controlled by hand-pulled pulleys.

Several tombstones of Dutch and British officials are embedded in the floor. On the right side wall, a plaque marks the original burial place of Vasco da Gama. The famous navigator was buried here until his remains were moved to Lisbon 14 years later.

Opening hours: every day 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m., Sundays from 1:00 p.m. – 5:00 p.m. Free admission. No entry fee.
(4) Dutch Cemetery
The Portuguese were the first to arrive here. In the following centuries, the city was ruled by the Dutch and then the British, until India gained independence. Many of these foreigners found their final resting place in Kochi. A nostalgic reminder of these inhabitants of the city is the Dutch Cemetery, one of the oldest European cemeteries in India. Its history dates back to 1724.

I visited Kochi twice, and the iron gate of the cemetery was always closed. However, you can peek inside through the iron fence. The cemetery is overgrown with dense vegetation, from which large black tombstones protrude. There are 108 graves of Dutch soldiers and merchants here. The inscriptions are no longer legible…
(5) Mattancherry Palace
The castle, built in the typical Kerala style, is also called the Dutch Palace. It was built by the Portuguese in 1555 as a gift to the local ruler at the time, but a hundred years later, the Dutch reconstructed and expanded it.

Inside the palace are beautiful murals depicting scenes from Indian epics.

Closed on Fridays! Opening hours and entrance fees: Mattanchery
(6) Paradesi Synagogue
Narrow streets, small shops. Only when you look closer will you see the Stars of David on the metal bars covering the windows. And when you enter the shop with the green facade, you will find kippahs, menorah candlesticks, embroidered tablecloths and bread covers (chal) among the merchandise. This is the Jewish quarter in Kochi.

The shop called Sarah’s Hand Embroidery had been run for many years by Sarah Cohen and her husband Jacob. The childless couple later hired a young man named Thaha Ibrahim, who made a living selling postcards to tourists. His assistance in the shop intensified after Jacob’s death, and an unusual friendship developed between the Jewish woman and the young Muslim man. When Sarah died in 2019, she left her shop to Thaha, who still runs it today.

The most famous report of the arrival of Jews in Kerala dates back 2,000 years, when they came as traders to the Malabar coast and later moved to Kochi (Malabar Jews). Other immigrants were Sephardic Jews who fled Spanish persecution in 1492. The local synagogue is named after these foreigners – Paradesi (“Foreign”), the oldest synagogue not only in India but in the entire Commonwealth. It was built in 1568 on land donated to the community by the local king. Its architecture reflects Jewish, Kerala and colonial influences.

The dominant feature of the building is the clock tower, with Hebrew numerals on one side. I found the interior of the synagogue cheerful, with colorful lamps and a gallery with brass railings. The large chandelier in the center is made of Murano glass, while the other chandeliers are from Belgium.

The floor is covered with 1,100 blue and white tiles made of Chinese porcelain. Although they look the same at first glance, each one is different. They are hand-painted, so they differ in small details.

Visitors enter not only Hindu temples but also this synagogue and churches barefoot, so wear shoes that are easy to take off and put on!

In the 18th century, 2,500 Jews lived in Kochi, but then their numbers began to decline rapidly, with many families leaving for Israel when it became an independent state. In the 1940s, there were still 250 Jews in Kochi, in the 1990s, only 20, and at the time of my visit (2024), only one pensioner remained from the once large Jewish community!
The synagogue is open every day except Fridays, Saturdays and Jewish holidays (as is Sarah’s shop!).

Opening hours: forenoon – 10:00 a.m. to 12 noon; afternoon – 3:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m.

(7) The Beach and Giant Trees

When I visited Kochi for the first time, I stayed at a hotel in the historic Fort Kochi district and explored the streets on my own. During my second visit, I used the services of a local guide named Jude. With him, I not only saw the aforementioned sights, but he also took me to the local beach – I must admit that I was not very impressed…

…and he also pointed out the huge historic trees on Jacob Road. The massive rain trees (Samanea) are truly impressive. They originate from Brazil and were brought here by the Portuguese.

(8) Traditional Laundry Dhobi Ghats
The last stop on my city tour with Jude was a traditional laundry, where laundry is still washed by hand and beaten on stone slabs before being dried in the sun. Most of the workers here are men, as it is hard physical labor. They work from five in the morning until late in the evening, all year round (except during the monsoon season). Every day, they wash 150-200 kg of laundry from local residents as well as from hotels and hostels.

The laundry was founded by the Dutch in the early 18th century, when they brought members of the Vannar community here to wash the uniforms of Dutch army personnel. The Vannar men come from the neighboring state of Tamil Nadu, still speak Tamil, and have traditionally been employed as laundry workers since time immemorial. Currently, the community has 47 members.

At the time of my visit, the men were ironing the washed laundry with extremely heavy old irons filled with coal or coconut shells, paying no attention to our curious glances. They use rice water and tapioca starch for starching.
The laundry is dried on coconut fiber lines – without using clothespins!

By the way, I have a feeling that laundry must be one of the most popular activities in India. Literally on every corner, you will find washed laundry drying in the sun, not only hung on lines, but also neatly spread out on the grass, walls or roofs of houses, simply anywhere… And those drying pieces of clothing add even more color to the amazingly colorful palette here.

(9) Kathakali
Another attraction that I think every visitor to Kochi should experience is a Kathakali performance. On my first evening, Jude booked me a ticket at the Kerala Kathakali Center. Kathakali is actually a retelling of great stories from Indian epics through the expressive form of dance. Every single movement, twisting of the fingers, movement of the eyes and even the trembling of the lips has a specific meaning. This form of art originated in Kerala three hundred years ago.

The performance is preceded by an hour of demanding makeup application. Men sit on stage (according to tradition, female characters in Kathakali are also played by men), apply different colors to their faces (each color has a different symbol) and attach beards and moustaches made of white paper. The makeup is so thick that the actors look as if they are wearing masks. When they finish applying their makeup, they put on extravagant costumes and headdresses. This is followed by instructions explaining the individual gestures and facial expressions.

During the performance, the actors did not speak or sing, but it was still a very powerful experience for me. I have described this performance in detail in a separate article: Kathakali

(10) Spice Shops
In the past, Kochi became one of the most important seaports. Ships sailed from here loaded with black pepper, cinnamon, turmeric and cardamom, as well as tea, ivory and live peacocks. If you want to cook something Indian at home, you should definitely explore the spice shops in Kochi.

Spices are not sold in small paper bags as in our European shops, but by weight – stored in large sacks! I especially recommend masala mixes and curry leaves (which can be frozen or dried), which give Indian recipes that special touch.

(11) Fruit and Vegetables
During my visit to Kochi, I didn’t miss out on the fruit shops either. Fruits of all possible flavors and colors are a feast for the eyes. I don’t even know the names of some of them.

The selection of vegetables is just as huge. Of course, there are various varieties of chilli peppers. I was also attracted by large brown balls – so-called elephant foot yams (called chena in Kerala).

Did you know that up to 200 varieties of bananas grow in Kerala? When you are in Kochi, you must try fresh banana chips. You can read about how these chips are made, as well as other banana specialties, in my article: Banana Specialties in Kerala

Extra tip:
If you want to stroll through quieter streets, you can take a ferry to the nearby islands in the backwaters. The pier was in Fort Kochi, not far from my hotel. I was surprised to see men and women waiting in separate lines for tickets, even though everyone mixes on the boat.

I took a trip to Wellington Island. I was the only European on the boat and had a lot of fun with the teenagers who wanted to take “secret” photos of me. Every two years, the island hosts the largest tourism fair in Kerala – the Kerala Travel Mart.
Practical information:
How to get there:
Kochi has an international airport, 28 km from the city. In 2015, it became the first airport in the world to be fully powered by solar energy.

Where to Stay:
During my visit, I stayed at the beautiful Brunton Boatyard Hotel, built in colonial style, right in the Fort Kochi district on the historic site of a former British-era shipyard to faithfully reflect the symbols and signs of a historical period known for its majestic grandeur and good taste. The lobby was cooled by the same fans as St. Francis Church. The interior was decorated with various antiques and a couple of peacocks came from the garden to be fed.

The room was also decorated in colonial style, and the bathroom had a bathtub. The hotel has its own water purifier. The bed was so high that there had to be a wooden step next to the bed to get into it comfortably.

The only downside was the noise from the ferry traffic, especially from the boats carrying motorcyclists. The room was equipped with earplugs, but the windows were also well insulated, and I kept them closed all the time as I had the air conditioning on.

More information: Brunton Boatyard

Getting around the City:
I felt safe walking alone in the streets of Fort Kochi. My only problem was that I got lost – in the Muslim quarter. These were streets where apparently not many tourists go, more dirt, more chaos… Nevertheless, even here I felt safe, I was just nervous that I couldn’t find my way back to the hotel and, of course, there were no tuk-tuks available…

As elsewhere in India, someone may want to take a photo with you so they can brag at home that they met a European. I deal with this by agreeing on the condition that I can also take a photo of that person. That’s how this photo of a young Muslim mother with her two children came about.

Finally, I caught a tuk-tuk with a very nice driver who took me to my hotel…

As I mentioned, on my second visit, I hired an English-speaking guide. If you would like to use his services, you can contact him via WhatsApp – Jude Peter: +91 9633475056
Thank you for reading this article. You may also be interested in my other articles from this part of India. You can find them in the category: KERALA

Text: © Copyright Ingrid, Travelpotpourri
Fotos: © Copyright Ingrid, Travelpotpourri

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