TRAVEL
RECIPES WITH A STORY
AUSTRIA-VIENNA
SLOVAKIA-BRATISLAVA
EVENTS
INTERVIEWS
Monte, at an altitude of 600 meters above the capital, was a popular excursion destination even in the past. Especially in the summer, the air here is fresher than down in Funchal. Rich families and wealthy guests from the European mainland therefore rented houses here and spent the summer months in climatic spas. However, fresh air, greenery and beautiful views are not the only reasons we – and other visitors to Madeira – made a trip here.
If we had lived a hundred years ago, we could have driven here with a rack steam railway. It operated here between 1893 and 1943 but was closed due to frequent accidents. Today, you can get here by car, taxi, bus (20, 21, 22 and 48) or cable car (approx. 15 minutes). We wanted to take the cable car but the long line, which meant at least a two-hour wait, discouraged us. We therefore preferred to go by car.
After getting out of the car near the final bus stop, I thought that I was in Venice and that there was a gathering of all the gondoliers. Dozens of men dressed in white and with straw hats on their heads jumped out of a white bus. However, they were not gondoliers, but “carreiros”, who operate basket sledges which is one of the biggest attractions of the island.
From the bus stop, there is a view of the lush vegetation of the City Park, which was established under the arch of the former rack railway track.
We stopped by the small chapel Capelinha da Fonte, which stands on the site of the former final railway station. The original chapel from the 16th century was destroyed by a fallen chestnut tree during a storm, the sanctuary was then rebuilt in 1897 from marble. The water in the well is said to have miraculous effects, so do not forget to take a sip.
We continued along the path made of basalt stones to the first destination of our trip. There are 170 natural sharp steps made of black stone, and the most pious pilgrims climb them on their knees.
(1) Church of Our Lady of Monte (Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Monte)
The construction of the pilgrim church began in 1741, but the work was interrupted by an earthquake, so it was only completed in 1818 in the Baroque style. The building with two towers is all white, with dark tuff stones.
According to legend, the Virgin Mary appeared to a little shepherdess in this place in the 15th century. When she took her father there, they found a small statue (approx. 30 cm), which is now kept in a shrine on the altar. The statuette is supposed to protect against natural disasters and is also attributed with healing powers.
On August 15 – the feast of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, it is always crowded here. Pilgrims kneel up the basalt steps or the 68 steps in front of the church entrance. The precious statuette is taken out of the shrine and goes on a procession through the narrow streets. Worshippers try to kiss the hem of her dress in devout respect.
Pilgrims from all over the island come here for this holiday. Along the sidewalks, skewers rotate on fire, on which pieces of beef are grilled. This is the most famous traditional Madeira dish – espada. Traditional bread is baked and good food is washed down with local wines.
While on August 15 the church becomes the destination of domestic pilgrims, on April 1 (not only) Austrian monarchists come here. After the end of the monarchy, Austrian emperor Charles I was forced to go into exile, but he refused to give up his titles and claims. In 1921, he tried twice to regain power – but failed, so he had to leave – first to Switzerland, then to the remote island of Madeira. He arrived in Funchal with his wife Zita on November 19, 1921, and they stayed in Villa Victoria, next to Reid’s Hotel. When their personal jewels (the last financial reserve) were stolen, the emperor had to move with his seven children and his wife, who was in an advanced stage of pregnancy, from Funchal to Monte, which, although beautiful and pleasant in summer, is cold and damp in winter. The emperor caught a cold and died of severe pneumonia on April 1, 1922, just two months after the move. He found his last rest in the side chapel of the church.
In addition to the modest sarcophagus, there are also flowers and gifts from pilgrims, especially with the Hungarian tricolour, but also a plaque in Czech, as the last Austrian emperor, Charles I, was also the king of Hungary and king of Bohemia. On October 3, 2004 (82 years after his death), he was beatified by Pope John Paul II.
A life-size statue of the emperor stands under the impressive staircase leading to the church. The emperor has a wonderful view from here.
When you are leaving from here, stop by this pond. In its center, a map of the island of Madeira is made of stones.
(2) In contrast to the reverence and silence of the church, at the bottom of the stairs there was a lively commotion and strange sounds. Here, you can get on unique means of transport – the basket sledges.
Due to the extremely steep slopes and the lack of roads, it was not possible to transport people or goods on wheels here until the 20th century. Everything was carried on the back and even people in litter.
Back in the 1970s, you could still see sledges pulled by oxen all the way to the center of Funchal. At the same time, a unique means of transport – basket sledges – were also used here. The Anglo-Portuguese soldier and nobleman Russel Manners Gordon came up with this idea in the middle of the 19th century, which is probably why the English name toboggan is still used.
In the past, up to ten people could ride on a sledge. Today, it is only one, two or three people. I must say that our first attempt did not work out. Similar to the situation with the cable car, there was a very long line waiting. That is why we returned to Monte on another day in the morning. We took a taxi to the beginning of the toboggan truck just before 9:00 a.m. (i.e. before the start of the cable car operating and before the beginning of the working hours of the sledges). Some carreiros were still smoking, others were unloading or better to say – throwing the sledges on the ground with a loud noise from the back of the truck.
Several sledges were waiting leaning against the wall. They are made of willow wicker.
We were the first to get here that day and the first to get into the first sledge. As soon as we were seated, two men in white clothes with straw hats on their heads jumped on the sledge from the sides, and then the sledge, greased with lard, slid down the hill with us. The carreiros brake the sledge with their feet, so they wear shoes with thick rubber soles which they have to replace already after three weeks. In less steep parts, the men jumped down, pulling the sledge behind them.
In the past, sledges used to slide all the way to Funchal, today they are used to transport tourists on a 2-kilometer route which is already well beaten and shines. In some places, it runs alongside or even crosses a regular road for cars. For that reason, there is always a helper standing there directing the traffic. In addition to him, there stands also a photographer, and at the final station of the toboggan, you can then buy a photo of you on the sledge as a souvenir.
The sledges are operated by a private company. 153 carreiros are paid according to the number of rides. When enough of them have gathered in the final station, they are taken up by the white bus that we got to see as well. Several times a day. When it rains, the sledges do not operate.
Prices in 2023:
sledge with 1 person – € 27.50
sledge with 2 people – € 35
sledge with 3 people – € 52.50
This attraction is not cheap, but it is definitely unique and has to be tried.
(3) Monte Palace Tropical Garden (Jardim Tropical Monte Palace)
The third attraction that makes a trip to Monte worthwhile is the Tropical Garden. It was originally part of the villa of the English consul Charles Murray, today it is the private garden of businessman and art collector José Berard. It was opened to the public in 1991.
On an area of 7 hectares, you can admire a wide variety of plants and trees (some of which I saw for the first time in my life). The surroundings are beautified by lakes, waterfalls and sculptures. You can even find Cleopatra’s vase here, which is included in the Guinness Book of Records in 1992 as the tallest vase in the world (height 534.5 cm, weight 550 kg).
Berardo admires the culture of Japan and China, so there are also two oriental gardens with vegetation from both countries, as well as pagodas, stone lanterns and other typical decorative elements.
We also saw the pavilion with sculptures from Zimbabwe and the pavilion with minerals where large, beautiful amethyst druses are definitely among the most beautiful objects.
Opening hours: every day from 9:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
Entrance fee: € 15, children under 15 free
You can find more information and photos from the Tropical Garden in the article:
In addition to walking around the area, visiting the pilgrimage church and the tropical garden, and experiencing the toboggan ride, we also had lunch in Monte – at the Pátio das Babosas restaurant with a terrace with a panoramic view, near the Tropical Garden.
In the pleasant interior, you can choose from typical Madeiran dishes. We also preferred traditional cuisine; all dishes were excellent.
Since we did not take the cable car up to Monte, we used this way of transport on the way back to Funchal. That way we were able to enjoy the views over the roofs of the capital.
More information about the cable car: http://www.telefericojardimbotanico.com/
From the terrace of our hotel, we also had a beautiful view of Monte. After we visited this place, every morning we looked at the white building with two towers – the Church of Our Lady of Monte and remembered our pleasant trip.
For more information about Madeira: visitmadeira
Text: © Copyright Ingrid, Travelpotpourri
Fotos: © Copyright Ingrid, Travelpotpourri
