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    Brusel – 8 secesných stavieb, ktoré si možno pozrieť aj zvnútra

    Brussels – 8 Art Nouveau Buildings that Are Open to the Public

    Brusel – 9 secesných stavieb, ktoré sa oplatí vidieť, i keď len zvonku

    Brussels – 9 Art Nouveau Buildings that are Worth Seeing, Even if Only from the Outside

    3 dni v Bruseli – Deň 3

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    3 dni v Bruseli – Deň 2

    3 days in Brussels – Day 2

    3 dni v Bruseli  – Deň 1

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    Brusel – hlavné mesto komiksov

    Brussels – the Capital of Comic Strip

    Comillas – z rybárskej dediny letovisko kráľovskej rodiny

    Comillas – from a Fishing Village to a Favourite Summer Resort of the Royal Family

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    Santillana del Mar – a Picturesque Town with a Medieval Look

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    9 Tips for Your Perfect Day in Santander

    Kantábria – krajina tisícich jaskýň Jaskyňa 3: Kde dozrievajú syry

    Cantabria – A Land of Thousands of Caves
    Cave 3: Where the cheese matures

    Kantábria – krajina tisícich jaskýň Jaskyňa 2: El Soplao – krehký zázrak prírody

    Cantabria – A Land of Thousands of Caves
    Cave 2: El Soplao – A Fragile Wonder of Nature

    Kantábria – krajina tisícich jaskýň Jaskyňa 1: Altamira – v umeleckej galérii pravekého človeka

    Cantabria – A Land of Thousands of Caves
    Cave 1: Altamira – In the Art Gallery of Prehistoric Man

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      Beef Stew in Red Wine with Quinces

      Nikolaihof Wachau – V najstaršom vinárstve v Rakúsku

      Nettle Salad from Nikolaihof

      Bravčové medailóniky s dubákovou omáčkou

      Pork Medallions with Cep Cream Sauce

      Pistáciové slimáčiky Pečieme na Vianoce

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      Brokolicový koláč s mrkvou

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      Tekvicovo-jablkový džem

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        Paint Your Own Souvenir from Vienna!

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        3 tipy na Veľkú noc vo Viedni

        3 tips for Easter in Vienna

        Porcelánový kabinet – luxusná komnata na ukazovanie

        Porcelain Room – A Luxury Chamber for Showing

        Na prechádzke po 15 najkrajších predvianočných uliciach Viedne

        A pre-Christmas Walk Through the 15 Most Beautifully Illuminated Streets of Vienna

        Sigmund Thun Klamm – magická roklina v Kaprune

        Sigmund Thun Klamm – A Magical Gorge in Kaprun

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        Schmittenhöhe – Hiking among Mountain Flowers and Herbs

        Pri pečení chleba v Kaprune

        Baking Bread in Kaprun

        Kitzsteinhorn – raňajky (takmer) v nebesiach

        Kitzsteinhorn – Breakfast (Almost) in Heaven

        Bad Mühllacken – očista tela i mysle

        Bad Mühllacken – Cleansing of Body and Mind

        Muž nad strechami mesta – Zaujímavosti z Viedne 12

        A Man over the Roofs of the City – Interesting Bits about Vienna 12

        Nikolaihof Wachau – V najstaršom vinárstve v Rakúsku

        Nikolaihof Wachau – In the Oldest Winery in Austria

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          Banská Štiavnica – Rush of Romance and Nostalgia

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                Brusel – 8 secesných stavieb, ktoré si možno pozrieť aj zvnútra

                Brussels – 8 Art Nouveau Buildings that Are Open to the Public

                Brusel – 9 secesných stavieb, ktoré sa oplatí vidieť, i keď len zvonku

                Brussels – 9 Art Nouveau Buildings that are Worth Seeing, Even if Only from the Outside

                3 dni v Bruseli – Deň 3

                3 Days in Brussels – Day 3

                3 dni v Bruseli – Deň 2

                3 days in Brussels – Day 2

                3 dni v Bruseli  – Deň 1

                3 Days in Brussels – Day 1

                Brusel – hlavné mesto komiksov

                Brussels – the Capital of Comic Strip

                Comillas – z rybárskej dediny letovisko kráľovskej rodiny

                Comillas – from a Fishing Village to a Favourite Summer Resort of the Royal Family

                Santillana del Mar – malebné mestečko so závanom stredoveku

                Santillana del Mar – a Picturesque Town with a Medieval Look

                9 tipov na jeden perfektný deň v meste Santander

                9 Tips for Your Perfect Day in Santander

                Kantábria – krajina tisícich jaskýň Jaskyňa 3: Kde dozrievajú syry

                Cantabria – A Land of Thousands of Caves
                Cave 3: Where the cheese matures

                Kantábria – krajina tisícich jaskýň Jaskyňa 2: El Soplao – krehký zázrak prírody

                Cantabria – A Land of Thousands of Caves
                Cave 2: El Soplao – A Fragile Wonder of Nature

                Kantábria – krajina tisícich jaskýň Jaskyňa 1: Altamira – v umeleckej galérii pravekého človeka

                Cantabria – A Land of Thousands of Caves
                Cave 1: Altamira – In the Art Gallery of Prehistoric Man

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                • RECIPES WITH A STORY
                  Bábovka s vaječným koňakom

                  Bundt Cake with Egg Cognac

                  Vianočné oriešky Pečieme na Vianoce

                  Christmas Nuts
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                  Dulovo-pomarančový džem

                  Quince-Orange Jam

                  Hovädzí guláš na červenom víne s dulami

                  Beef Stew in Red Wine with Quinces

                  Nikolaihof Wachau – V najstaršom vinárstve v Rakúsku

                  Nettle Salad from Nikolaihof

                  Bravčové medailóniky s dubákovou omáčkou

                  Pork Medallions with Cep Cream Sauce

                  Pistáciové slimáčiky Pečieme na Vianoce

                  Pistachio Snails
                  Christmas baking

                  Karfiolové placky s bulgurom a quinoou

                  Cauliflower Pancakes with Bulgur and Quinoa

                  Brokolicový koláč s mrkvou

                  Broccoli Pie with Carrots

                  Tekvicovo-jablkový džem

                  Pumpkin-Apple Marmalade

                  Tekvicová krémová polievka

                  Pumpkin Cream Soup

                  Tiramisu podľa Bruny

                  Tiramisu à la Bruna

                  Trending Tags

                  • AUSTRIA-VIENNA
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                    • Austria
                    • Vienna
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                    Paint Your Own Souvenir from Vienna!

                    Prvý slon vo Viedni – Zaujímavosti z Viedne 13

                    The First Elephant in Vienna – Interesting Bits about Vienna 13

                    3 tipy na Veľkú noc vo Viedni

                    3 tips for Easter in Vienna

                    Porcelánový kabinet – luxusná komnata na ukazovanie

                    Porcelain Room – A Luxury Chamber for Showing

                    Na prechádzke po 15 najkrajších predvianočných uliciach Viedne

                    A pre-Christmas Walk Through the 15 Most Beautifully Illuminated Streets of Vienna

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                    Sigmund Thun Klamm – A Magical Gorge in Kaprun

                    Schmittenhöhe – turistika uprostred horských kvetov a bylín

                    Schmittenhöhe – Hiking among Mountain Flowers and Herbs

                    Pri pečení chleba v Kaprune

                    Baking Bread in Kaprun

                    Kitzsteinhorn – raňajky (takmer) v nebesiach

                    Kitzsteinhorn – Breakfast (Almost) in Heaven

                    Bad Mühllacken – očista tela i mysle

                    Bad Mühllacken – Cleansing of Body and Mind

                    Muž nad strechami mesta – Zaujímavosti z Viedne 12

                    A Man over the Roofs of the City – Interesting Bits about Vienna 12

                    Nikolaihof Wachau – V najstaršom vinárstve v Rakúsku

                    Nikolaihof Wachau – In the Oldest Winery in Austria

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                    • SLOVAKIA-BRATISLAVA
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                      • Bratislava
                      • Slovakia
                      Vivat Rex! – Korunovačné slávnosti v Bratislave kedysi a dnes

                      Vivat Rex! – Coronation Festivities in Bratislava Then and Now

                      Banská Štiavnica – nával romantiky a nostalgie

                      Banská Štiavnica – Rush of Romance and Nostalgia

                      Pečená hus

                      Roasted Goose
                      An Honour or a Punishment?

                      In the Kingdom of Geese

                      In the Kingdom of Geese

                      Čunovo

                      Čunovo – Oasis of Art and White Water

                      Veselú Veľkú noc

                      Happy Easter!
                      Traditional Art of Decorating Eggs in Slovakia

                      Hrad v Trenčíne

                      A Winter Day in Trenčín

                      Trending Tags

                      • EVENTS
                        Plovdiv – Európske hlavné mesto kultúry 2019

                        Plovdiv – European Capital of Culture 2019

                        Baden bei Wien – Prechádzka medzi ružami a fotografiami

                        Baden – A Walk between Roses and Photographs

                        PF 2018

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                        Pokojné vianoce

                        Merry Christmas!

                        Večný cisár František Jozef I.

                        The Eternal Emperor Was a Romantic

                        batika

                        How to Make Indonesian Batik

                        Happy New Year

                        Happy New Year!

                        Veselé Vianoce

                        Merry Christmas!

                        Trending Tags

                        • INTERVIEWS
                          Kláštor sv. Kataríny na Sinaji

                          Saint Catherine’s Monastery
                          Interview with the Librarian Father Justin

                          So spisovateľkou Adrianou Macháčovou

                          Adriana Macháčová – Interview

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                          Home TRAVEL Portugal

                          Coimbra – The City with Academic Tradition

                          by Ingrid
                          09.03.2016
                          in Portugal, TRAVEL
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                          The answer to the question – what is the capital of Portugal? – is very easy. But do you know what was the first capital of the Portuguese Kingdom? It was Coimbra. The first kings made their residence here in 1144, six kings were born and the first two ones are buried here. About one hundred years later the capital was moved to Lisbon.

                          Coimbra is located on a hill by the river Mondego, about half the distance between Lisbon and Porto. The main sight on the hill can be seen from far away. However, it is neither a fortress nor a castle. It is a university which is the same symbol for Coimbra like the port for Lisbon or the wine for Porto. At the same time when the royal residence was moved to Lisbon, the university was moved as well, but the aristocracy did not like the progressive spirit, the way of thinking and the opinions of its intellectual society. So the university was moved back to Coimbra. Thanks to that the best heads are still born here and the impressive complex of this educational institution dominates the city.


                          There used to be a military camp in Roman times, later a royal residence. The university was established in 1290 by King Dinis after Nicholas IV’s Papal bull. It is one of the oldest universities in the world. It was first established in Lisbon, but after many changes between the two cities, it permanently settled near the Mondego River in 1537, at a palace granted by King John III. His majestic statue stands in the courtyard. With his clothes he reminds me of Henry VIII, even then the aristocracy was dressed according to the dictate of fashion. Well, padded shoulders, puffed sleeves, a huge cloak over the dress, short trousers, stockings, a flat cap, a chain on the chest, even the beards remind of the Tudor dynasty. The king has a small dagger hanging on his belt, he is nonchalantly holding gloves in his right hand and observing the movement on the square – students in black cloaks guiding visiting tourists.

                          We arrived in Coimbra on Saturday. When the bells on the baroque tower started to toll nobody was hurrying up to lectures. There were more tourists than students in the square at that moment. I am sure most of the students were still sleeping after a long night because the nightlife in Coimbra is much more vivid than in other Portuguese cities. But according to an old tradition, students who are in their first year of university should not be on the street after the last bell tolls. By the way, one of the three bells is called “cabra” – goat because its sound reminds of bleating.

                          Cheerful student‘s life

                          Over twenty thousand students (from more than 70 countries) study here. If you add ten thousand more from the technical university then they make up one-fifth of the total number of city inhabitants. Students here wear black cloaks (with frays on the hem, it is said that every single fray stands for one love adventure but I did not dare to ask our guide 🙂 ). This uniform was later moved to Porto and you might not guess that from there it also got into the books about Harry Potter (but more about it later in the article about Porto). Each of the faculties has its own colour (red is for law, yellow for medicine etc.) which appear in the seats in the auditoriums and as ribbons worn by the students. At the end of the second semester they burn those ribbons – the ceremony is called “Queima das Fitas“. It is one of the biggest student parties in Europe which lasts for eight days, one for each University faculty. The second traditional ceremony is even noisier. The elder students are “baptizing” new ones at the beginning of the academic year, it is called “Festa das Latas” which means a feast of tin cans. Young students have to dress in motley fancy dresses made by their elder colleagues and pull along a bunch of tin cans bound to their legs. After a noisy march through the streets of the city, the new students are baptized with the Mondego River water.

                          Unfortunately, there was no student ceremony during our stay in Coimbra. At least we were enjoying the beautiful view from the balcony of the university over the river. In the past, washing girls were bleaching and spreading the laundry on the riverside. We could also see the Santa Clara-a-Velha Monastery which reminds us of a ship sunk into the river sand. A sad view – a sad story. Pedro, the son of the king of Portugal Afonso IV, fell in love with Inês de Castro but because of monarchy interests, he was forced to marry Constanza Navarra. Even when his wife died he was not allowed to marry Inês. They had secret meetings in the gardens of Quinta das Lágrimas but the king did not like it and ordered the murder of Inês. Two years later, when Pedro took the crown, he ordered the body of Inês to be exhumed and demanded from court people to recognize her as queen by bowing and kissing her hand. Yuck! After that, he caught the people who killed his beloved one, ripped out their hearts and ate them for dinner. Even more yuck! We prefered to go back into the rooms of the university.


                          Walking through the university rooms

                          Students in Coimbra had the right to vote and to choose their teachers already in the 14th century. It sounds very modern but walking through these rooms we could look at portraits of some of the rectors – there were only strict and austere faces. At the very beginning, there were only lessons in canon law, grammar, theology and logic given. Later, when the time of voyages of explorations needed other specialists, other more exciting topics were added: geometry, arithmetic and astrology. We peeped into a lecture room with wooden benches and blue-and-white tiles azulejos. But a small window in the upper corner of the room caught our attention. From this window, the rector can observe his subordinates – the lecturers.

                           

                           

                          Through open windows on the corridor, we could also see the ceremonial room “Sala Grande dos Actos” which is still used for graduation and other academic ceremonies. It must be a very nice experience in such a nice hall which was the ancient throne room. There is a beautiful wooden ceiling and portraits of the kings of Portugal.

                          St. Michael’s Chapel with a beautiful portal in Manueline style belongs also to the university complex. Inside, there are walls covered with azulejos, an altar with no saints but with symbolic steppes to the heaven and a ceiling painted with fine leaves and flowers garlands. Nevertheless, the baroque organ was the most interesting object for me. Not all of its pipes are standing parallel to the wall, some of them stick out from the wall like open fans. I think the organ did not want to be overlooked as it was attracting our attention and clearly manifesting that it is the king of musical instruments.

                          The baroque library – Biblioteca Joanina – in the left side wing is the greatest pride of the University of Coimbra. It was ordered to be built by King John V in 1720. His inspiration was the emperor‘s library in Vienna. We entered it as if we were entering a sacred temple as it really looks like one: baroque furniture, splendid paintings and gold, gold everywhere! No wonder, that the library belongs to the ten most beautiful libraries in the world! There are three great rooms with gorgeous tables made from exotic woods and walls completely covered with bookshelves. The library contains more than 40.000 books in different languages, bound in leather, and 3.000 medieval manuscripts. Among them are rare volumes such as the first edition of Os Lusíadas – a Portuguese national epic poem from the 16th century or a Hebrew Bible from the second half of the 15th century of which there are only 20 copies around the world.

                          A bat colony lives in the library. They are welcome as they help to maintain the books by eating insects. Every evening the people from the library have to cover the precious wooden tables with furs to protect them from bats‘ excrement after the night banquet. But there is something else which is much more interesting. A medieval prison! Just beneath these sumptuous rooms! If a student had broken the home order or damaged a borrowed book he was punished by sending him to prison. However, it did not mean that he skipped lessons. Not at all! He went to lectures in the morning and after that returned to his cell. Though I have to say that it was really an academic prison! Because there was a toilet! Who knows, maybe this is the place where the habit of sitting with an open book on knees for a long time was invented…

                          In the city

                          We had our lunch in a restaurant with a view of the university, of its long balcony from where we had been watching the river before. We were enjoying not only the delicious food – the traditional soup caldo verde (the recipe: here), fish and panna cotta with ice cream served on a lava plate as dessert – but also the typical relaxed Portuguese atmosphere. The midday sun was strong, it made the skylight grey.

                          After lunch, we made a short stop at the city’s centre the Square of 8th Mai. I did not manage to find out why this is the name of the square, nevertheless, it got my sympathy at first sight because my name day is on May, 8. 🙂 The most interesting sight on the square is the church of Santa Cruz.

                          There is the Manueline style again, a carved pulpit, the altar with steppes, the walls with tiles, the striking organ and a box for lightening candles for our beloved ones. For the first time, I saw electric candles for that purpose in a church. Clink! – a coin into the money box, blink! – a small lamp on a candle. There are also two graves in the church: the grave of King Afonso Henriques – the first king, founder of the kingdom and conqueror, and the grave of his son Sancho. The tombstones are very richly decorated.

                          We went out. There is a café stuck to the church on one side. A waiter in a uniform, reminding of a figure from an old movie, ran around the tables. He made a bow in front of a guest, put a small cup of coffee on the table and then entered the café balancing a tray on his strained fingers. Small streets lead to the square. There are no entry signs but I think they are unnecessary because the streets are so narrow that a car could hardly drive there. You can find cosy restaurants, cocktail bars, intellectuals’ cafés etc. on these narrow streets. What a pity that we could not stay for the evening and enjoy the nightlife in Coimbra where you can learn how to say Cheers! in many languages. Or to listen to music and singing. Fado is the echo of the Portuguese soul. Coimbrão Fado is sung exclusively by men and demands a strict dress code. And according to tradition, to applaud fado in Lisbon you clap your hands while in Coimbra you cough. Fado is considered the song of sorrow, desire and pain of the soul. According to a Portuguese saying “a Portuguese sings there where the craving for crying is…”

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