Tips for Two Days in Utrecht – Day 1

Utrecht is the fourth largest and one of the oldest cities in the Netherlands. It’s just the right mix of quiet and vibrant, old and modern. Lots of water, green oases, narrow houses, interesting museums and historic buildings are worth exploring in more detail.

I would recommend two days for Utrecht. I would spend one day, especially if the weather is nice, walking outside and soaking up the atmosphere, while on the second day, I would visit some of the museums (if it rains) and still manage to go for a trip to the surroundings (if the sun shines again).

1. Canals – Grachten
Someone once said that if you like the grachten in Amsterdam, you will definitely love the ones in Utrecht. Once it gets a little warmer outside, life in the city happens by the water.

In the past, canals were used to transport goods. In addition to trade, water was also used for firefighting, brewing and tanning. Utrecht’s canals were built in the 12th century. They differ from canals in other Dutch cities because the people of Utrecht dug tunnels from the canals directly into the cellars of their houses.

This created the vaulted cellars (over 700) typical of Utrecht and the narrow embankments below street level. Goods were transported by boat. In the 19th century, carriages and cars replaced the boats. The fences and walls separating the various cellars were removed as part of the renovation of the waterfront and the cellars were converted into restaurants, cafés and bars with terraces, workshops or boutiques. The branches of old trees lean over the water, adding to the unmistakable atmosphere.

The Oudegracht (Old Gracht), the Nieuwgracht (New Gracht, although ‘new’ is relative as it was built in the 14th century) and the Singel (former moat) complete the image of the city. The Oudegracht is 2 km long and stretches around the Old Town.

You can take a trip along the canal by boat, kayak or canoe. I definitely recommend trying at least one of these attractions to see the city from a different perspective. We chose the 1.5-hour classic sightseeing boat cruise. From the boat, we could admire the architecture of the old houses (we also saw the smallest house in Utrecht), the parks and parts of the old city walls.

We also saw the crane – a piece of history that the city got back in 2022. It was built according to the old techniques, the structure is wooden and only the lead roof has been replaced with a new, non-toxic material, but resembling lead in appearance.

We sailed under bridges and even under the Hoog Catharijne shopping centre. Our guide also pointed out the reliefs under the lampposts on the waterfront, which we wouldn’t have noticed otherwise.

More information: City Boat Tours Schuttevaer
2. St. Martin’s Cathedral – Domkerk

While the canal secured Utrecht’s status as a commercial city, the cathedral gave it prestige and wealth. The first church dedicated to St Martin was built here in 695. The foundation stone of the future cathedral was laid on its site in 1254. Due to financial and other problems, its construction continued until the 16th century.

Very little of the rich Gothic interior decoration has survived. In 1674, a devastating storm with a tornado swept through Utrecht. The central nave of the cathedral collapsed like a house of cards. For a long time, there had been debates (sometimes even today) about whether this destroyed part should be rebuilt, but in the end the building was closed off with a new wall in the western part. It was not until the 19th century that all the rubble was finally cleared away and the square in front of the cathedral was finally rebuilt. This created a unique situation – the Cathedral Tower – Domtoren, originally part of the church, now stands separately. You can see it from any point in the centre while cruising on the canal or even while walking around the city. It is an excellent orientation point.

The construction of the tower started later than that of the cathedral, in 1321. Some inhabitants did not like it, fearing that a second Tower of Babel was being built. Protests, lack of money and a plague epidemic meant that the tower was not finished until 1382 and led to the planned height of 126 m being reduced to “only” 112.32 m. Even so, it was the tallest building in the Netherlands at the time!
It is truly admirable that the tower withstood the devastating storm that separated it from the church. Even today, it has to be restored regularly every 40-50 years. At the time of my visit (April 2024), the lower part was still hidden under scaffolding. Since November 2024, after 5 years of renovation, the tower can again be admired in its full glory.

If you climb the 465 steps, you will be rewarded with a magnificent view far and wide. The visit is only possible with a guide.

Practical information (ticket prices, opening hours, online sales): Domtoren

Cathedral Square – Domplein is the oldest square in Utrecht. It is located on the site of the former Roman fortress Traiectum dating from 41 AD, which was part of the limes, the northern boundary wall of the Roman Empire. At the square, in front of the cathedral, our attention was caught by a 6 m high statue of a woman with a burning torch – a memorial to the victims of World War II, especially the Utrecht resistance fighters. Another statue belongs to Count John VI of Nassau-Dillenburg, the architect of the Union of Utrecht (the union of the northern provinces and cities against the southern Netherlands), which is considered to be the birth of the Netherlands. We also saw a large rune stone, a gift from Denmark for the 300th anniversary of the university.

At the square, you can find the former chapter house, the main building of the university as well – the Academiegebouw. The renowned Utrecht University was founded in 1636 and had four faculties (philosophy, theology, law and medicine), less than 100 students and seven professors. In 1892, this new academy building was completed in Neo-Renaissance style using elements from ancient Greek culture (Pallas Athena above the entrance). In the lecture room (formerly the Chapter Hall) the aforementioned Utrecht Union was signed. It is now the second-largest university in the Netherlands. It has seven faculties and its 70 thousand students give the city a youthful dynamism.

3. Hidden Gardens
Pandhof van de Dom – Through the gate on the Domplein we entered the inner courtyard, which formed the link between the cathedral and the great Chapter Hall. Today, there is a beautiful green oasis created from the original 14th-century herb garden, surrounded by a cloister. It is one of the most beautiful monastery gardens in the Netherlands.

In the triangles above the stone windows, there are scenes from the life of St Martin (copies). In the middle of the garden is a fountain with a writing monk. The garden is open every day from 10.00 to 16.00.

The Pandhof is looked after by a group of volunteers, just like Flora’s Hof (Flora’s Court). It is further proof that the Dutch love flowers, flower terraces and gardens. You’re sure to meet at least one cat there. There are also copies of reliefs about St. Martin on the side walls. You can get to the garden by going under the cathedral tower.

During my walks around the city, I discovered another hidden garden, Pandhof Sinte Maria. Only the ambits and this cloistered garden survive from the church of Maria Major (St. Mary’s Church) from the turn of the 11th and 12th centuries. Wild plants from all over Europe whose names are associated with the Virgin Mary are planted there. A pleasant place for relaxation, with few tourists.

4. Churches
In the past, Utrecht was one of the most religious cities in the Netherlands; in the Middle Ages, clergymen, monks and nuns made up 10% of its population. This is evidenced by the number of churches. If you want to visit any more churches besides the cathedral, I recommend Janskerk. It’s one of the former Utrecht’s five medieval parish churches, built in 1040 of tufa stones and dedicated to St. John the Baptist. The interior of the church is very minimalist.

In front of the main entrance, there is a statue of Anne Frank. Flowers are brought to her by the market florists. Every Saturday, in the shadow of this church, the biggest flower market in the city takes place (from 7.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m.).

5. Nijntje – Miffy
She’s an adorable white bunny-girl and her name is Nijntje. Not only do all the children in the Netherlands know her, but she is also famous in other parts of the world, especially in Japan. Since her Dutch name is difficult to pronounce, she is called Miffy abroad. The author of this popular character and her stories is Dick Bruna, a native of Utrecht. In front of the conservatory on Mariaplaats Square, we found a big statue, unique in that it is half Nijntje and half Dick Bruna. The white rabbit even has its museum in Utrecht, but we will visit this one in the next article.

I also discovered a small square in Utrecht named after Nijntje (Nijntje Pleintje). In this quiet green corner, you will find one small, simple statue of this little rabbit.

6. Walks around the City
I spent more than two days in Utrecht, so I got to walk its streets multiple times, always discovering something new. If you opt for a shorter visit, pick at least a few of these interesting sights:
Vismarkt – Fish Market – Fish markets have been held here since the 1200s. Fish was kept fresh by hanging in baskets submerged in the canal water. Today, it is just a memory, as the last fishmonger closed his stall at this place in 1970. A statue of a market woman – Murktvrouwtje – commemorates the former bustle.

The City Hall – Stadhuis was given its form inspired by classical Greek architecture by Emperor Charles V. Since 1957, five figures have adorned the façade below the gable, symbolising the qualities of good governance: justice, vigilance, power, prudence and faith.
The coat of arms of the city can be found on several buildings. The patron saint of Utrecht is St. Martin. The red and white colours on the coat of arms recall his cloak, which he cut with his sword to share with a beggar.

Winkel von Sinkel – the first department store in the Netherlands. Hats, corsets and other fashion accessories were sold here. Today, it is a popular restaurant and café. For almost four centuries, the town crane stood nearby. The owner of the department store decided to decorate his building with four cast-iron columns in the shape of female characters from Greek mythology. They were extremely heavy. When the last statue was being lifted, the crane collapsed and could not be repaired at all. It was not until 2022, that the (aforementioned) copy was built.

Apotheke De Liefde – the most famous Art Nouveau building in Utrecht, built in 1903-1904 for the pharmacist De Liefde. The façade is asymmetrical, with a skylight over the arch of the shop and a small tower on the roof. The pharmacy can be found on Neude Square, which is one of the locals’ favourite spots for nightlife. However, even during the day, I was fascinated by the huge number of bicycles parked there. I don’t know how I would have found my own one here! By the way, every year in Utrecht, they pull up to 3,000 bikes out of the canals!

Near the pharmacy, you will also see the Thinker on the Rock statue. We were here in the spring, but in the winter, someone always wraps a warm scarf around his neck.
Louis Hartlooper Complex – a former police station, built according to a plan by architect J.I. Planjer in the style of the Amsterdam School. The design also included a bridge and a bus stop. Today, it houses a cinema and is one of the most popular places for an evening out.

De Zeven Steegjes – Seven Streets – the ‘people’s quarter’. In the mid-19th century, the Catholic Care for the Poor built dwellings in this district, mainly for workers who worked at the nearby brewery or tobacco factory. The houses were small (no kitchens or toilets) and the families were large, with life taking place on the streets. The seven small streets are what remains of this neighborhood. The city bought the area, built a toilet and a built-in kitchen into each apartment. Today, they are neat little houses, some still occupied by descendants of the original inhabitants. In this area, I also found a deconsecrated church, converted into an apartment building.

Zocher Park – a very pleasant walk, where you can escape the hustle and bustle of the city at least for a while. This green path is 4 km long but rarely more than 100 metres wide. It winds along the Singel Canal. You will also find 200-year-old trees here.

UFO – as I followed the green line along the Singel approaching the railway station, I discovered a UFO! Don’t believe it? Then take a look at the photo!

A flying saucer “landed” on the Inktpot building at Moreelsepark in 2000. Apparently, the aliens like it very much in Utrecht, as they still haven’t flown back home. 🙂

Extra Tip:
If you are in the Netherlands on 27 April, everything will be closed. It’s King’s Day – Koningsdag, the Dutch national holiday, the birthday of King Willem-Alexander of the Netherlands. However, Utrecht is famous for celebrating the night before – Koningsnacht. It was my last day in the Netherlands. The streets of Utrecht lit up in orange. There were both little and big orange flags hanging everywhere. Shoe shops put orange sandals in the window, cake shops offered orange cakes and even the opticians put orange glasses on the photo of the royal couple. The traditional Dutch tompoes cakes were turned orange as well and people bought full boxes of them.

Shops sold orange T-shirts, hats, crowns, capes, garlands, hair bows and all sorts of other trinkets. When I went to the same shop two hours later, the shelves were almost empty…

Crowds of people were pouring out of the main railway station. Everyone was wearing at least some orange detail, some even full suits. The railings along the canals were full of parked bicycles, some just lying on the ground. I’m sure the garage underneath the central station for 12,500 bikes, the largest underground bike garage in the world, was full as well. Stages were set up in the city squares, live music was playing in some places, and DJs in others. Everyone celebrated late into the night.

There were patrol boats on the canal. I guess they weren’t looking for drowned bicycles this time…
Where to Stay:
Utrecht is a major rail hub, from Utrecht you can easily travel by train to Amsterdam or other cities. We knew we’d take some trips by train too. In addition, Utrecht train station is located near the historic centre, so we preferred a hotel near the train station when choosing our accommodation: the Crowne Plaza.

The entrance to the hotel is directly on the ground floor of the Hoog Catharijne shopping centre, the reception is on the 3rd floor. We parked the car in the underground garage under the shopping centre.
Detailed information about train travel in the Netherlands: Train Travel in the Netherlands